Thursday, 23 April 2015

consultation forms

Consultation forms

throughout this term I haven't had to do a lot of consultation forms as i have only worked on three people.


Name: Daniella

Hair type:  very thick and course hair

Length of hair: very long hair

Natural or coloured hair: natural with highlights auburn 

Extensions or not: No

Eye Colour: brown

Age: 20

Do they have any allergies? No

Are they on any medication? No

Are they wearing contact lenses? No

Contra-indications: No

Head lice: No


Notes: a huge amount of hair prep when necessary


Name: toby

Hair type: straight medium thickness

Length of hair: short sides a bit of length on top

Natural or coloured hair: blond

Extensions or not: No

Eye Colour: blue

Age: 19

Do they have any allergies? No

Are they on any medication? No

Are you wearing contact lenses? No

Contra-indications: No

Head lice: No



Name: bella

Hair type: wavy and layerd

Length of hair: short on the shoulders

Natural or coloured hair: coloured dark brown

Extensions or not: no

Eye Colour: blue

Age:20

Do they have any allergies? No

Are they on any medication? No

Are you wearing contact lenses? No

Contra-indications: No

Head lice: No

contemporary victorian hair styles, inspired by american horror.

Product list
curlers
pin tail comb
hair pins
paddle brush

method:
1. make a off centre parting
2. on the side with more hair create three curls pinning as you go
3. on the side with less create two curls and pin as you go.
4.curl two below these curls on each side into the face.
5. then do the same process with all of the back of the head in a brick laying format.



6. take out all the pins from the back of the head
7.twist the bottoms in on itself and pin along the bottom of the hair line to keep it all tucked in
8. individually take out the curls from the front and smooth round
9.take the ends of the curls and make neat circles and shapes and pin those in place




10. take all the pins out again
11. take a paddle brush and brush it gently through the ends to create a flick.

12. take the head off of the black and shake it upside down.




burns how to re-create with different products

Products used
barrier cream 
liquid latex
plastic pot
stipling sponge
scissors
fake blood
supra colour pallet
KRYOLAN eyeshadow pallet
blusher brush 
spatula
wound filler

method
1. cleanse the hand to make sure the surface area is clean.
2. rub a small amount of barrier cream on to the desired area
3. pour some liquid latex into a pot
4. add thin layers of liquid latex onto the skin letting each layer dry in-between
5. once all these layers are dry use the supra colour pallet in reds and purples and yellows to create the sore effect 
6. break into the latex with a spatula in a few points you would like to focus on
7. make the areas you have broken into darker and include yellow on the inside.
8. with your stipple sponge add wound filler and darker supra colours.
9. blend out the edges with your finger and stipple sponge
10. use your blusher brush to lightly powder the darker areas of the burn with a dark black/ coal shade .

Wednesday, 22 April 2015

creating light scaring, using molds, how to attach to the skin, how to colour

Product List:
Supra colours
stippling sponge
cotton buds
witch hazel
prosaide adhesive
gelatine moulded wound
loose powder
spatula

Process of creating scaring:
1. ensure the surface area you are working on is clean of any product or dirt.
2. choose which mild you want to use, i wanted a median cut so i could experiment comfortably as i haven't done wounds before.
3. use the prosaide on the skin that you want to work on.
4. use the prosaide on the flat surface of your wound as well.
5. stick the wound to the section of skin with the prosaide, make sure its secure before you continue. especially the edges, you fingers may stick to the mould so you can use a spatula to secure around the edges.
6. pour some witch hazel into a little tub 
7. dab your cotton bud in a small amount of the witch hazel and rub in circles around the ends of the wound. you have to work into it quite a lot to melt it into the skin but try and blend out swell so you don't just create another harsher line.
8. Once satisfied with the amount of blending (I wasn't because I felt I rushed) use the loose powder all over the surface this makes it able to work into with other products.
9. in this example again as it was my first wound i tried to use just reds and darker reds with hints of brown and purple supra colour.


creating miss Havisham continuity image

 Product list:
sectioning comb
paddle brush
hair tie
hair curlers
pins
hair spray
heat protection spray.
sectioning clips
fake flowers
Illamasqua skin base primer
illamasqua skin base white foundation
Kryolan foundation
M.A.C limeted edition kiss the king
disposible lip brush
Illamasqua loose powder
Kryolan blusher.

THE FIRST TIME

The process of miss Havishams make-up:
1. cleanse tone and moisturise the face.
2. mix the kryolan foundation with Illamasqua white foundation and primer.
3. apply this base all over the face.
4. powder the hole face with Illamasqua loose powder.
5. make the model smile and apply the kryolan blusher to the apples of her cheeks.
6. using mac lipstick and disposable lip brush apply all over the lips
7.Using your finger smudge the lipstick across to the side of her mouth.






















The process of practicing Miss Havisham hair:
1. brush through the hair with the paddle brush until hair is smooth of knots
2.section about four fingers worth of the front of the head from the back section with the pin tail comb.
3. tie the back section in a mid height ponytail. make sure it is firm and tight
4. section the front centrally down the middle with the pin tail comb and hold in place out of the way with sectioning clips.
5. turn on your curlers to heat up
6. spray through the pony tail with heat protection.
7. take small sections and curl the hole pony tail in small indervisual tight curls in different directions.
8. go through the pointy tail taking each curl and turn it in on itself and pin.
9. do this with the entire pony tail building curls upon each other until it forms a bun.
10. take one front side down and section it again down the middle leaving the longer section free below the ear and pin back up the top section again.
11. make three curls in the bottom section.
12. release the top section and do a further three curls.
13. do this again on the other side.
 14. take 5 of the fake flowers. put one directly in the middle if you can.
15. using the remanding 4 flowers space them equally around the outside of the bun.
16. secure all of this with hairspray.


THE SECOND TIME
The process of miss Havishams make-up:
1. cleanse tone and moisturise the face.
2. mix the kryolan foundation with Illamasqua white foundation and primer.
3. apply this base all over the face.
4. powder the hole face with Illamasqua loose powder.
5. make the model smile and apply the kryolan blusher to the apples of her cheeks.
6. using mac lipstick and disposable lip brush apply all over the lips
7.Using your finger smudge the lipstick across to the side of her mouth.

The process of practicing Miss Havisham hair:
1. brush through the hair with the paddle brush until hair is smooth of knots
2.section about four fingers worth of the front of the head from the back section with the pin tail comb.
3. tie the back section in a mid height ponytail. make sure it is firm and tight
4. section the front centrally down the middle with the pin tail comb and hold in place out of the way with sectioning clips.
5. turn on your curlers to heat up
6. spray through the pony tail with heat protection.
7. take small sections and curl the hole pony tail in small indervisual tight curls in different directions.
8. go through the pointy tail taking each curl and turn it in on itself and pin.
9. do this with the entire pony tail building curls upon each other until it forms a bun.
10. take one front side down and section it again down the middle leaving the longer section free below the ear and pin back up the top section again.
11. make three curls in the bottom section.
12. release the top section and do a further three curls.
13. do this again on the other side.
14. take 5 of the fake flowers. put one directly in the middle if you can.
15. using the remanding 4 flowers space them equally around the outside of the bun.
16. secure all of this with hairspray.





creating estella image

Products needed:
Illamasqua skin base primer
illamasqua skin base white foundation
Kryolan foundation
M.A.C limited edition kiss the king
disposible lip brush
Illamasqua loose powder
Kryolan blusher.
sectioning comb
paddle brush
curling tongs
 hair pins
 hair sectioning clips
 hair spray
pre curled extensions 
red feathers
bunch of off white flowers

Process of Estella make-up:
1. cleanse tone and moisturise the face.
2. mix the kryolan foundation with Illamasqua white foundation and primer.
3. apply this base all over the face.
4. powder the hole face with Illamasqua loose powder.
5. make the model smile and apply the kryolan blusher to the apples of her cheeks.
6. using mac lipstick and disposable lip brush apply all over the lips






















Process of Estella Hair: 
1.To start I sectioned the back half of her hair into a pony tail simply to keep it out of the way whilst I sectioned the front half.
2. In the front half I need a triangle section in the middle and two side sections. To do this i used my pintail comb and found the middle of her face by following it up from her nose. then in a straight diagonal line i followed this to the line sectioning the front and back of the head on both sides.
3. then I moved onto the back of the hair. I sectioned a small layer from the nape of the head and curled four individual curls. 
4. I then took that layer back combed the roots 
5.i then got a layer of my (pre curled) extensions and clipped them into the back comb of this layer.
6. I repeated this process of taking a thin layer, creating four - 5 curls, back combing the roots, and attaching the extensions through all of the back of the head of hair.
7. I then took the two side sections and combed them away from the face trying to be neat 
8. I pinned these sections behind the ears too keep of the face 
9. I curled the ends of these sections so any longer layers blend with the back of the head of hair.  
10. with the middle section I wanted a smooth finish with a small amount of hight, to do this I combed it back and then pushed forward a little and pinned
11. I then secured all I have done with some hair spray.
12.I finished this look with  red feathers and a bunch of fake off white flowers and simply pushed them into the depth of the curls, some stayed on there own and those that didn't I used pins to keep in place.


practice look of miss havisham both hair and make-up technical classes


 Product list:
sectioning comb
paddle brush
hair tie
hair curlers
pins
hair spray
heat protection spray.
sectioning clips
fake flowers
Illamasqua skin base primer
illamasqua skin base white foundation
Kryolan foundation
M.A.C limeted edition kiss the king
disposible lip brush
Illamasqua loose powder
Kryolan blusher.
diposible mascara wand
M.A.C waterproof mascara

The process of practicing miss Havishams make-up:
this is not the final plan of my miss havisham as i removed the use of mascara in my final design and both continuity assessments as i realised it was not authentic to the era
1. cleanse tone and moisturise the face.
2. mix the kryolan foundation with Illamasqua white foundation and primer.
3. apply this base all over the face.
4. powder the hole face with Illamasqua loose powder.
5. make the model smile and apply the kryolan blusher to the apples of her cheeks.
6. using mac lipstick and disposable lip brush apply all over the lips
7. Using disposable mascara wand and M.A.C waterproof mascara run a small amount of mascara through the eyelashes from the root.
8. with the same wand gentle pat the mascara just above the crease in the eyelid and just outside of reach of the bottom lash line.


The process of practicing Miss Havisham hair:
1. brush through the hair with the paddle brush until hair is smooth of knots
2.section about four fingers worth of the front of the head from the back section with the pin tail comb.
3. tie the back section in a mid height ponytail. make sure it is firm and tight
4. section the front centrally down the middle with the pin tail comb and hold in place out of the way with sectioning clips.
5. turn on your curlers to heat up
6. spray through the pony tail with heat protection.
7. take small sections and curl the hole pony tail in small indervisual tight curls in different directions.
8. go through the pointy tail taking each curl and turn it in on itself and pin.
9. do this with the entire pony tail building curls upon each other until it forms a bun.
10. take one front side down and section it again down the middle leaving the longer section free below the ear and pin back up the top section again.
11. make three curls in the bottom section.
12. release the top section and do a further three curls.
13. do this again on the other side.

 14. take 5 of the fake flowers. put one directly in the middle if you can.
15. using the remanding 4 flowers space them equally around the outside of the bun.
16. secure all of this with hairspray.



cuts, scratches, bruising and the perfect black eye


Product list: 
cleanser, toner moisturiser
supra colour pallet
sponge
stiple sponge
cotton buds
The Perfect Black eye Process:
1. Prep the models face, cleanse, tone and moisturise the face.
2. using the supra colour pallet blend two tones of purple on the back of your hand
3. using supra colour blend a off skin toned yellow
4. using supra colour blend a dark and lighter blue
5. using supra colour blend a red tone (realistic to sore skin)
5. with these colours blended on the back of your hand begin with the yellow tones and red and use the sponge to surround the eye with this tones in patches
6. use your finger to blend these together and make it look realistic to the skin.
7. then start with one - three purple sections with the lighter purple.
8. go into these heavier bruised sections with the blues and purples getting darker as you add layers
9. Use fingers and sponge to blend together these colours and blend them out to the further outskirts of the eye, and into the eyebrow swell.



Cuts and scratches the process:
1. make sure the desired surface area is clean of any product
2. use a stipple sponge and supra colour red, blended with other supra colours such as green or darker tones to make more realistic tones and graze across the skin .
3. use a cotton bud to bled and smudge at any lines that are too harsh.

victorian hair style for Estella

Product List:
1. sectioning comb
2.paddle brush
3.curling tongs
4. hair pins 
5. hair sectioning clips
6. hair spray
7. pre curled extentions 
8. red feathers
9. bunch of off white flowers

In preparation for my estella exam one of the things that helped me was learning mid- late victorian hair styles.
 I found whilst learning this the sectioning was kind of similar to the early victorian hairstyles in some senses you still had to have an evenly pin tailed central parting for the style I wanted to re-create.



further estella designs and practice
for this look I pre-curled my extensions 
1.To start I sectioned the back half of her hair into a pony tail simply to keep it out of the way whilst I sectioned the front half.
2. In the front half I need a triangle section in the middle and two side sections. To do this i used my pintail comb and found the middle of her face by following it up from her nose. then in a straight diagonal line i followed this to the line sectioning the front and back of the head on both sides.

3. then I moved onto the back of the hair. I sectioned a small layer from the nape of the head and curled four individual curls. 
4. I then took that layer back combed the roots
5.i then got a layer of my (pre curled) extensions and clipped them into the back comb of this layer.
6. I repeated this process of taking a thin layer, creating four - 5 curls, back combing the roots, and attaching the extensions through all of the back of the head of hair.
7. I then took the two side sections and combed them away from the face trying to be neat 
8. I pinned these sections behind the ears too keep of the face 
9. I curled the ends of these sections so any longer layers blend with the back of the head of hair.  
10. with the middle section I wanted a smooth finish with a small amount of hight, to do this I combed it back and then pushed forward a little and pinned
11. I then secured all I have done with some hair spray.
12.I finished this look with  red feathers and a bunch of fake off white flowers and simply pushed them into the depth of the curls, some stayed on there own and those that didn't I used pins to keep in place.



dark eyes and lips

Before any look on a client health and safety requires I do a consultation with my client which i did with Daniella and there were no contra-indications. I also put a apron on my client. 
Product List:
M.A.C matte Russian red lipstick
M.A.C matte diva lipstick
M.A.C ruby woo lipglass
M.A.C night moth lip pencil
M.A.C fashion boost pro longwear lip pencil
M.A.C strut eyebrow pencil
M.A.C 217 eyeshadow brush
M.A.C 224 eyeshadow brush
KRYOLAN 9720 eyeshadow brush
Benefit what's up! soft focus highlighter
 eye brow sharpener
disposable lip brushes
MUA heaven and earth eye shadow pallet - aurora, Myan dust, valley, canyon, tectonite, bedrock.
ILLAMASQUA loose powder.
Cleanser, toner, moisturiser.

For this look you start with the eyes before any thing else as the dark fall out won't ruin any make-up.

Dark Eyes Process:
1.  Cleanse , tone and moisturise the face
2. cover the surrounding surface of the eye lid your working on with ILLAMASQUA loose powder. so that if any fall out occurs you brush it away with ease.
2. Using the KRYOLAN eyeshadow brush and Aurora from the the MUA eyeshadow pallet I then covered the whole lid so there was a shine and glimmer underneath the finished look.
3. After tapping any left over excess powder off I then used the Kryolan brush again to cover the bottom lid with the Myan dust MUA eyeshadow. 
4. With the same brush I then took Canyon MUA eyeshadow from the tear duct up to the beginning of her eyebrow and then through her eyelid crease.
5. I then blended this out with a M.A.C 217
6. I followed the same line with the KRYOLAN brush that I did with Canyon but this time with Valley MUA eyeshadow and i don't go quite as far through the crews as i did with Canyon, i then blended this out with M.A.C 217 again so there were no harsh lines.
7. I repeated this process with tectonic eyeshadow but again not as far through the crease and blened out after.
8. the last eye shadow i used, bedrock MUA eyeshadow, followed the same line up from the tear duct to the top of the brow but then only covered the corner of the crease in the lid, i then applied this a few times over to give some depth.
9. I then used my M.A.C 224 to wipe away any access powder from around the eye and do a final blend over the entire lid to get rid of any harsh lines.
10. I lined the eye actually with the mac eye brow pencil swell because this way it gave more of a coal effect. 
10. to finish the look i used M.A.C eye brow pencil to draw a line at the bottom of the brow and lightly brush it through with a couple of strokes through her eyebrows. i highlighted under the brow with a little benefit watt's up! and blend this out with my finger.


Dark Lips Process:
1. line the entire lip with dark moth M.A.C lip liner
2. at the bow of the lip line with fashion boost M.AC lip liner
3. fill the entire lip with diva M.A.C lipstick
4. blend with a disposable lip brush
5. then use Russian red in the middle of the top and bottom lip and blend with the disposable lip brush.
6. put a little ruby woo lip glass in the centre of the bottom lip and ask middle to rub her lips together.

I finished this look with a basic foundation coverage over her entire face.

Tuesday, 21 April 2015

Theatrical ageing/ creeping of the skin

With theatrical ageing we begin the process the same as with any make-up look. a counceltation form between you and your client needs to be talked through to ensure there are no contra-indications such as allergies or sawness of the skin. make sure to cover your client with a apron before beginning any work.

Products needed:
cleanser, toner, moisturiser
Kryolan foundation pallet
supra colour pallet
disposible mascara wand
loose powder
barrier cream
sponge's
liquid latex
bowl/ pot
hairdryer

Process of Theatrical Ageing
1. Cleanse, tone and moisturise the face to prep for make-up, and ensure the face is clean of any other cosmetics.
2. From the supra palette I blended the green yellow and red together. Mixing it with the appropriate amount of white for Daniella's skin tone. This will make a brown which I will use to create dramatic contours and lines of the face. 
3. I then made Daniella make these creases and lines in her face by posing with  various different facial expressions, like frowning smiling laughing and generally moving her features around as much as she could. whilst she did this I used a thin brush to work into these lines showing the shape and shadows they create with the supra colour mix i made.
4. to soften the harsh drawn on lines i used my little finger (so i didn't wipe off all the product) and gently smudged and blended out the lines
5. to enhance the overall look i went back into some of the creases with darker and lighter shades to make them more dramatic.
6. when done with the wrinkles i used a stippling sponge on Daniellas cheeks to make it look like she had broken veins swell. i dipped this in red supra colour and lightly dabbed at the top of her cheekbone.
7. I then used a disposable mascara wand and dipped it in the white supra colour and ran this through both her eyebrows and eye lashes to make them look grey.
8. to make sure the maw-up stayed fixed i lightly powdered with Illamasqua translucent powder.  




Process of Creping the Skin
1. I made Daniella clean her hands before I began to make sure the surface i was working on wouldn't have any product or dirt on.
2. Apply a barrier cream to the area and work into the skin.
3. I then emptied the latex into a dish and let it rest for a couple of minutes. 
4. keeping the sections of skin I'm working on tight i used the sponge to patt a small layer of latex on.
5.next i dried this layer by using a cool hairdryer and slowly shaking it at a small distance from the latex area.
6. i continued this process repeatedly adding layer upon layer whilst blending out the ages making sure i don't get a bump of latex at the end and that it smoothly joins to the skin.
7. using the same tone as Daniella's skin I finished this look with a bit of foundation and translucent powder to set.





Historical Victorian Hair

Whilst looking into the early victorian hair styles I also did a practice on my Katy head. following the images I have scene whilst researching it I immediately knew I wouldn't be able to create such structures with the quantity of hair I had but every practice will help me understand the techniques more and will be able to help me in designing a hair style to fit the era that I can create with continuity.

to create this look it was actually surprisingly easy. and coming from me that must be easy. to start with I obliged to the victorian specialty, slick centre parting. i created this look with a trusty pin tailed comb. I combed back all of the front of the hair back with no parting then following the nose up to find the centre of the face created a straight line directly back to the crown of the scalp. at this point i gently pulled the hair to one side to create a parting. unfortunately on a katy doll the hair doesn't fall quite as evenly as it would with natural hair. So i knew it was even i looked in the mirror and took the pin of my pin tail comb and took across any strands that were out of place. these corrections are key in the victorian look as it was a large part of the desired finish. then from roughly just behind the ears i sectioned the back of the head off so i have three sections two symmetrical at the front of the head and the remaining of the back of the head.

at the back of the head i simple got two sections out of the hair twisted them around one and other and then twisted it into a small bun which was secured by pins. with the two side sections they were both also sectioned into four long strips of hair down the side of the head, each one equalish, i then used the heated curls straight against the face curled in and held for roughly 4-5 second on each to make sure the curl is set well. to make sure the curls don't drop when taking the tongs out i released the hair bit by bit  and used the comb to push the hair off the curlers in the same shape.

i think my final outcome is ok for a first timer but obviously it would be much more beautiful and i would be able to get a lot more creative if it was long human hair. like the elizabethans had, i am really excited to start working with a partners hair but i foo feel sorry for them as my hair is certainly much shorter and most likely just as damaged as a victorians hair.